In the world of panettone, managing the mother sourdough starter is the most crucial step. Indeed, the starter is considered the backbone of panettone, influencing its preservation, taste, and structure. Contrary to popular belief, there is no precise instrument to measure bacterial activity in the starter. This is why a good panettone artisan must learn to recognize the organoleptic characteristics of their starter to understand its needs and optimize its performance.
Touch: The artisan uses their hands to feel the texture of the starter. A healthy starter should have a supple and elastic consistency. By touching the starter, the artisan can determine if it needs more hydration or flour. The tactile sensation also helps detect potential over-fermentation, indicated by a texture that is too soft or sticky.
Smell: Smell is another crucial sense for the artisan. By smelling the starter, they can determine if it has reached the right level of fermentation. A well-balanced starter emits a slightly acidic but pleasant smell, reminiscent of yogurt. An overly sour or alcoholic smell can indicate a microbial imbalance or excessive fermentation.
Taste: Finally, the artisan tastes the starter to test its acidity and the correctness of its aromas. A good starter should have a balanced acidity, offering a slight tang on the palate without being too acidic. Tasting also allows for checking the complexity of the aromas, which should be harmonious and well-developed. Like a diligent gardener, the artisan monitors the starter, providing it with just enough flour and water to thrive. It is in this delicate balance that the key to obtaining a moist and flavorful panettone lies.
The sourdough starter used at Viva Panettone is invaluable, composed of centuries-old strains that belonged to the prestigious Morandin family, who have left their mark on the living history of panettone in Italy. Rolando, nicknamed the "pope of panettone," collaborates with his daughter Francesca Morandin, herself a specialist (PhD). Together, they advance science while preserving the traditional panettone know-how based on optimal natural sourdough management. Sourdough is a mixture of natural bacteria and yeasts with a slower and thus more digestible lactic fermentation, while industrial yeast results in a faster and alcoholic fermentation. The daily management of the sourdough starter is a meticulous process.
It is necessary to ensure optimal temperature and humidity conditions, as well as to regularly feed the starter by adding flour and water. This is a painstaking task that requires constant attention, but it is also where the magic of creating an authentic panettone lies. If the starter were ever to die, as happened at Viva Panettone in 2023 due to a vitamin imbalance in imported flours, it is essential to have a backup solution.
Fortunately, Viva Panettone had a second starter ready to take over, thus avoiding an interruption in production. Rebuilding a starter from scratch is a long process, taking over forty days, and achieving the specific bacterial balance of the starter requires daily work and extensive expertise. Regular maintenance of the starter ensures the continuity of production and maintains the tradition of this delicious Italian cake.